Thursday, May 21, 2020

Up on the hill

Dinner up Shit Creek last week. Nina and I walked up the stairs, and avoided the rocky path, named Shit Creek by someone long ago .... could have been No Neck Hank, or Jock Strap Jerry, or Orange Charlie, or any other gypsy who spent time here, before my day ! K. lives way up there, but not quite as far up as Ms. D.  I don't have permission to write about her, and we all know she is very private, so I will just call her D, and our host, K.
If you arrive in Yelapa, for the first time, and plan to spend any length of time here, it won't be long till someone tells you the story, of the woman on the hill, D. Stung 17 times by a Scorpion, cuts the head of snakes with her machette, and very rarely ever comes down to the village. I was facinated !
It took a few years for me to ever see her, and then a few more years to actually meet her, and then slowly over time, get to know her better.
The four of us, having dinner and drinks. We didn't have masks on, but washed our hands and were careful. We have all been isolated here, and I've seen K. and Nina on different occasions, so we felt very safe.
No idea how high up it is, I'll have to ask, but I'll guess ..
200 or 300 feet, Shit Rock way way out in the distance, at the entrance to the bay. 
( How do you get to Yelapa from Vallarta ?
   Turn left at Shit Rock )
We sat on the lovely small deck, just meant for 4, nested in the trees, when the mangos are ready, my long arm could probably pick one off the tree !
I'd only been up there once before, so I followed Nina.
One of the 1st places she ever stayed, was up that hill, but on the other side of the creek. That was 45 years ago. 
There weren't a lot of houses to rent, back in that day, so I've heard many other people tell stories about that place.
No electricity, no hot water, no stairs, no bridge, feed the pigs your compost, no plastic bags. Those days you still had to ride the cargo boat to get here, which took about 2.5 hours !
No power boats, until a few years later, one water taxi.    
This year Nina had an extra bedspread and pillow case set that she had brought back from India, where she goes every year, for months at a time, when she can. I bought it !
I've seen the other ones she had over the years, and finally I have my own. It's not Mexican, but my embroidered pillows are perfect match. 
Under normal circumstances, Nina wouldn't be here at this time, nor K., but they live in hot spots for Corona virus,
in USA and the UK, so they will be here a little while longer. Hopefully they are gone before it rains, because their sweet cabins are not ready for that.
No one wants to live in a house with a hole in the roof, where the rain comes in !
Ms. D. is prepared. At 67 years old, she said it's 47 years she has been on that hill ! Many people came then, and stayed 6 months, or a year, maybe 3, but they all left, or died ! She stayed. She never left, except a few years ago when her Mom died, she's been here. For a loner, she's a great talker, and I learned how to care for my teeth with salt, care for my gums with Goldenseal, and make a Vodka mash punch, using fresh basil, lime, and water. Add Anis and Lemon Grass if desired !
I'm on it ! 
I didn't ask about cutting the head off snakes !
I started writing this blog in 2012, to keep connected to my Father, who could only talk on the phone for short periods of time. He died 6 years ago, and today is his 93rd Birthday.
He was able to make one visit to Yelapa, and saw and felt how I loved it here, and had found my place.
He was very happy for me.
I'd like to think I still write to keep that connection to him, and to the Yelapa friends I've met along the way.
Happy Birthday Dad, and Thanks for Everything !
      


Thursday, April 30, 2020

Good Night Eva

Sweet Eva, with the flowing hair, all the way down her back, at over 80 years old, though she almost never wore it down.
Catch her sometimes, sitting on the rock outside her house, brushing it out, the length of her arm. Stunning Eva.
She told me she remembers serving Jim Madden tacos, and beer, at her little cafe, 50 years ago. Gregorio has know her 45 years. Sweet Eva, calling your name as you walk by her place, her little cafe turned little store, turned Micheladas
Vicky !! 
Directions to the waterfall ?? Turn right at Eva's little store,
on the corner, and up the hill 5 minutes. Of course there was no sign that said Eva, and it wasn't what you would classify a store, really, but enough knick knacks and bolsas, and fishing lures hanging on the windows metal iron work, and she in her chair, next to her cat and her songbird.
After some time passed, it would be habit when walking by, to call her name first, even if she wasn't in her chair, she could see you from her room,or kitchen window, and it became a game, who said who first !  
She was ready with a laugh, and witty remark, many flying over my head, but always with good spirit ! 
Both of us trying to get Pedrito to study English. 
Her, pulling me inside the house to look for him, and he at
13 years old, trying desperately to hide ! 
Oh, she thought that was hilarious !
And a beloved Mother, and Grandmother, so close to to her grandkids. Sweet Susana, loved her so much, and cared for her so well, I feel her pain. 
A small service was able to be held at the Church, with burial following in the afternoon. She looked beautiful, in a soft print blouse, and bright pink cardigan. Her hair was up .
Nine days of prayers begin, as is tradition, but with distancing and masks needed this time.
It is a sad situation, all round.
Deligacion Yelapa posted a notice there will be applications available for government financial assistance, April 30 and  May 1 for anyone affected by the Corona Virus. 
That's good news.
Signing off, Good Night Eva, Rest in Peace Forever, xox


Sunday, April 12, 2020

Happy Holy Holidays

What a disaster ! 
COVID 19 !
It just goes on and on and on. 
I have never watched so much news ! I certainly feel more connected to the rest of the world, as in other disasters that have befallen us. 

All restaurants on the beach are closed. So sad.
Restaurants in town open for take out orders only. 
Pollo Bollo still crazy busy, as usual !

153 cases in Puerto Vallarta, is what I heard the other day.
There are road blocks on Highway 200, including on the road down into Boca de Tomatlan. If you are not a resident, or have essential business, you will be turned away. Residents only on water taxis. This is good.

People from Yelapa still travelling, many wearing masks, on the boat and around town, in the stores and restaurants too. 

Schools have a tentative date of May 6th, to re open, but we ll shall see. Students are required to continue with 2 hours of reading, and other homework. My English lessons are poplular, probably because they are so comical, and not on purpose !

All our hand washing and distancing will go on for sometime.
Nothing to be done, except get good at it !
A challenge in a little village.
This feels like a safe place to be, as long as we keep the virus out of Yelapa. If anyone falls ill here, we are really in for a challenge !!

Fish are biting, Red Snapper to be exact. I hear the fishermen getting in their boats at 4:30 am, to first go catch the squid or minnows they are using, that the Red Snapper love to eat !
So Yelapanes have rich fresh food to look forward, as long as there's fish in the sea ! 

I'll do my best to stay up to date with any developments. 
In the meantime .....
Wash your hands and Don't Touch Your Face !!

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Pandemic 2020

Where to begin  ....

I have been distracted and busy and pre occupied with this crazy life we have all been given !
The Coronavirus has not impacted Mexico as hard as other parts of the world, but the numbers are climbing, though still less than 1000 known cases. 
As far as I understand no cases in Puerto Vallarta at this time, but there was a death an hours drive south of Tuito, which is where the administration offices are, for our region of Cabo Corrientes.
Pretty close enough !
The biggest threat to Yelapa is/was the Party Boats and Vallarta Adventure boats coming in to tour the town and hang out on the beach for 2 hours. They stopped coming on March 19 and 20th.
Hopefully it was not too late. 
I was at a funeral on Wednesday the 18th !!
The Grandmother of all those girls at Cafe Eclipse died from
complications after stomach surgery. The wife of Margarito, our postmaster of no post office.
The next day I began my self isolation, except for necessary quick trips to the store.I'm following all the guidelines and instructions, and I believe most people are. Self distancing, not so easy, but we are doing the elbow bumps, and feet bump too !
Tourists and most seasonal residents have left town, though there are a few with their original plane tickets for mid April, but it's a just a waiting game.
I saw a some day trippers get off a small charter boat on Saturday, and Gringo had a small walking tour, but that was 4 or 5 days ago, and now the Puerto Vallarta Harbour Master
has closed traffic within P.V Jurisdiction.
Closed to all traffiic I do not know. 
Water Taxis are running to Boca, but the frequency has diminished. I don't see how there can't be a regular water taxi service every day, unless Vallarta gets shut down completly .... it is the life line here... garbage still being taken out, fishermen are fishing,( lots of red snapper ), students will complete their exams on line, and be ready for a 3 week break, or more !
I plan to send out a few english exercises to my students, via what's app and messenger. So fantastic we have the internet to stay connected, at times like these especially.
Usually when we are facing a crisis or potential disaster like this, it's related to extreme weather, and we always lose internet and phone service, and usually electricity, sometimes for days, so this is comforting, and confusing.
Like all of us, I'm spending a lot of my time very differently, 
expanding my mind with colouring books and Youtube !
Dear Yelapa has been dropped into low season, months ahead of time, losing the March Easter break, peak of the season, will hurt hard. 
There are no kids voices playing on the beach, no Sailboats
or Yachts in the bay, no Church bells ringing.   
Some local families left town for the family ranch.
Waiters and service staff who won't be working for a while
and kids whose parents are still working are often sent to Granny's house during holidays ... and pandemics !?  
Locals still moving about, 12 people or so on the morning taxi, only to Boca I'm presuming. 
Yet, I feel pretty safe here. Tempoary self isolation not a hardship for me, no job, no kids, and a lovely house with a view. Others are coping with less, and with more responsibilities. Only time will tell how we all make out.
From Wuhan, to Yelapa, we are all connected !!
Mother Nature knows no bounds. 
















Friday, February 7, 2020

rainy season

Finally ...... rain everyday for the last 4 days !!

Up to and over an inch each day !
This means the electricity goes off, twice for 12 hours, once for 20 ! Fans will not work without a generator or solar panels, but the rain cools things off, at least temporarily ! Most people jump into the ocean, and stay there, but the water sometimes can get pretty nasty, depending how hard it rained and how much run off there is.
These are the days of 2 or 3 showers to cool off ! 
Without a back up power plan, its best not to fill up your fridge or freezer with a trip to Costco this time of year.
Stock up on Raid spray and coils and these few months are the only time I use personal bug spray ! The rest of the year Yelapa is amazingly mosquito, fly free.
Of course there are always ants, scorpions, beetles etc. !!
but you don't need to keep a fly swatter close by, like  
you do this time of year ! 
Very small population of land crabs this season. Usually the trail is covered with them, but not this year, only a small dusting !  I think the two dogs living with me keep them out of the house, but there has been a few thrown around between them ! 
This is planting time. Dig up baby cactus and spread them around the property, transplanting cuttings and herbs and banana trees !
I know almost none of the Spanish names for trees and flowers, but I am learning. 

The Mother of Hortencia has died at 92 years.
It has been about a month now. There was a 48 hour vigil,
instead of the traditional 24 hour, because she had so many
children and grandchildren and nieces and nephews etc.. who are spread out over the USA and Canada, who wanted to be here. She was laid out in the Casino Yelapa, the only place big enough. 
Five years since my Dad died. July 28th or 29th I can not remember, but I think today, the 28th.
I celebrate him everyday !





Sunday, July 14, 2019

Rain rain come again ....

Welcome to Yelapa Town .... as they say on the tourist party boat !! 

Rain or shine it pulls into town, usually 2 or 3 of them,
and there are people still coming to visit this growing Yelapa town. This is low season, but the most tourists for this time of year that I remember ! 

It has been all sun and no rain these last 30 days. Many overcast days, but sunny breaks and full sun most days, although we received 1 inch at 6 am 3 days ago.
It was like a blizzard of rain rolled though the house.
A baby tornado, that lasted 30 minutes.
And that has been it, besides 1/3 of an inch yesterday.
That is all the rain we have had, for 7 months, give or take !!
We are very much on the edge of our seats.
Nothing to be done but wait, for rain, to come. 

We all depend on it, to replenish the rivers and reservoirs and streams and waterfalls. Without rain there is no water in the lines that supply our houses, and that could turn into a gigantic problem. 

Yelapa is a perfect place to practice patience, and gratitude.
Our connection and dependence to the planet is impossible
to ignore. 

Hot Hotter Hottest ! I carried an umbrella to Prepa graduation on the beach last week, to protect against the blazing sun !! First time I have done that, ever ! 
I attended all 4 ceremonies, and had a great time, and met some new people ! Always an exciting time, especially because school is now over until the end of August !!

There were many serious moments, many laughs and many tears too ! An enormous amount of work is needed to prepare for Graduation. The teachers here must work 2 or 3 times harder, then PV or even Boca. 
There are photos and commentary on Yelapa School Project Web page !

I opened a GoFundMe page, to support mi escuelita English Program, and have received $750.00 so far!!
Thank you friends !!
I am going to start mi escuelita Instagram, as recommended by JD, a high tech / graphic design graduate, of the 
University of Chicago,who dropped by ! 

The program will continue until August 8th, then a 3 week break, to begin again September. That will be the 2.5 year mark of the program ! 

Yelapa Student Scholarship Fund is still being created, by me, with advisers. The documents are being translated to Spanish, and next step to establish the best way to receive and be accountable for donations. 

In the meantime we mop and sweep and siesta and read, 
and repeat. Dream of and pray for and try not to think about
RAIN !!

Stay calm. Be patient. Remain grateful .













Monday, June 3, 2019

Photos

                                 
                                       Group Marlin Champion Dancers at annual area competition
                                                      held in Boca de tomatlan this year !



                                                 Group marlin girls new dance and costumes


                                             Dia del nino 2019 at new town square.


                                                    Look at all those happy ninos !


                                                 Phillipo LoGrande painitng for mi escuelita.




                                                            New roof just in time.